FAQs

Melamine is mainly used for small "throwaway" type boards found at office supply and discount stores. Melamine is either a sprayed on or coated plastic surface on 1/8" or 1/4" hardboard. It is also available as a high-pressure laminate (similar to Formica® countertop). Melamine can stain easily, and certain chemicals may damage the surface. Permanent markers usually cannot be removed from the surface. Melamine is meant to be an inexpensive surface that can be thrown away. It rarely is used in full wall applications, and it is usually framed with wood or aluminum trim. Standard melamine sheet size is 4' x 8', but it is available larger.

Porcelain is used in virtually all types of installations, from schools to corporations. Porcelain is produced as a chalkboard or a markerboard finish. The finishes are produced by coating a ceramic (glass) finish to a steel sheet and baking it (similar to a charcoal grill or sink finish). There are more colors available with the chalkboard finish. Dry-erase porcelain is available in white, beige, and grey (custom colors can also be produced). Since it is glass, porcelain can chip if it is cut or sheared. This chipping will not allow for clean seams. Seams are typically finished with an unattractive H-Bar molding. The main advantage that porcelain offers is that it is highly scratch-resistant and has a "lifetime of the building" guarantee. Porcelain is available in four-foot widths. Some manufacturers offer boards up to 4' x 16', but these are difficult to ship.

Advantages of Walltalkers over melamine and porcelain include:

• Walltalkers seams are virtually invisible
• Walltalkers can be shipped in a small container and will fit in any elevator
• Walltalkers products feature long, seamless surfaces
• Walltalkers provides the ability to cover complete walls

You can project on melamine or porcelain, but you will see a definite "hot spot" or glare. This "hot spot" can be described as the concentrated bright spot on the surface. Walltalkers does not have a hot spot or glare when projecting. Matte-Rite™ will have a very slight glow when it is used as a projection screen. Just-Rite®, and Mag-Rite® have a slightly lower gloss than porcelain. EZ-Rite®, Koro-Rite®, and melamine have similar gloss levels (high) that lower projection quality.

Porcelain is used in all dry-erase applications. It is typically not used for smaller boards (under 3' x 4') unless these boards are installed as part of a contract with other boards. Porcelain chalkboards are typically used in grade and middle schools. Markerboards are the surface of choice for all grades, including colleges, with the use of more and more computers in classrooms.

Either way the material is installed is acceptable. We recommend horizontal installations, since this is the best installation for the user. Horizontal installation moves the seams out of the largest writing area.

No. All seams should be double-cut. You cannot double-cut against a previously installed piece of wallcovering. Also, we cannot guarantee a color match to the old piece if a new piece is required.

We only recommend using pressure-sensitive adhesives over impervious surfaces such as laminates, glass, or steel. Since water is recommended for installation, the substrate must not absorb the water.

Walltalkers does not recommend hanging dry-erase wallcovering over existing vinyl or dry-erase wallcoverings. Applying wallcovering over wallcovering does not retain the same fire rating as the original surface.

No. Just as with commercial wallcoverings, all materials should be from the same run or die lot. The different widths of Walltalkers materials do not come from the same die lot, and therefore they should not be mixed.

Yes, Walltalkers can wrap around corners, however short returns and long returns may need to be installed differently. For tight wraps like reveals, the installer may need to use a more aggressive adhesive like contact adhesive or a spray adhesive around the corner. Walltalkers should be creased to form the corner; be careful not to rub through the dry-erase film. Lightly heating the material will also help around the corner.

Walltalkers does not recommend installing Just-Rite® or Mag-Rite® products around outside corners. The heavy weight of these materials will not allow for tight corner wraps.

The color of the wall should be one uniform color across the area to be covered. Walltalkers wallcovering may allow show-through due to the limited amount of opacity. The color is not as important, as long as it is uniform.

Yes—as with most wallcoverings, we recommend a high-quality acrylic primer/sealer when applying to drywall. All primers should be applied with a roller and lightly sanded to remove all bumps and stipple marks. Follow manufacturer's directions.

To get the best possible seams, they should be double-cut. Butting together factory edges will not give you an appealing seam. A double-cut seam will look much better than a butt factory edge seam.

We recommend dry hanging Walltalkers for better handling. Wet hanging will usually require a pasting machine. The material can be scratched or kinked going through a pasting machine. This can happen when the pasting machine has old paste or imperfections on the rolls. Also, the paste typically needs to be watered down for pasting machines. We do not recommend watering down any adhesives.

An experienced installer who knows how to properly handle Walltalkers may use either method. Care should always be used no matter what method of installation is used. Kinking, scratching, or creasing the material must always be considered when handling Walltalkers. Improper handling can cause permanent damage to the material.

Professional wallcovering installation is recommended, especially for larger applications. Walltalkers distributors can recommend professional installers in their areas. Step-by-step installation instructions are shipped with each order.

Walltalkers material is only as good as its installation. A professional installer is experienced to better handle and install Walltalkers materials.

The length of time will vary depending on a variety of factors: heat, humidity, the type and the amount of adhesive being used, and what type of primer or substrate is under the Walltalkers.

No, just apply wallcovering adhesive to the wall and install the material. Wet backing will actually help dilute the adhesive and weaken the bond.

During installation, air pockets should be gently pushed out from under the Walltalkers surface. This should be done with a plastic smoothing blade (wrapped with a clean soft cloth to prevent scratching the dry-erase surface) or a similar type of tool. Even pressure should be used, and air should be moved out away from seams toward the edges. Never pop air pockets with a pin or other sharp instrument. This will cause permanent damage to the Walltalkers surface.

Any straight-blade utility knife will work for trimming at ceilings, sidewalls, baseboards, and other obstacles (such as electrical outlets). For double cutting, we recommend a double seam cutting tool, such as a "Seam Buster." This type of tool allows the installer to double-cut the seams without cutting the drywall liner paper. Change blades often for cleaner cuts.

99% of Walltalkers products are applied over primed drywall, level 5 finish is recommended. Level 5 is the highest quality finish providing a uniform surface while minimizing telegraphing of seams/joints and fasteners.

Walltalkers can be applied over most clean, smooth, dry finishes, just like wallcovering. Resurfacing chalkboards and applying over steel are our second and third most popular types of installations. When going over steel, first see if the installer can use pressure-sensitive adhesive-backed products. Electro-galvanized, galvanealed, or "Paintlock" steel are recommended for applications requiring steel backing. Unlike regular galvanized steel, these do not have a dipped coating, so surface is smooth and will not chip when sheared. The matte finish allows a better bond to the steel. It is recommended to use a rust-inhibiting primer on the steel surface to prevent degradation/oxidation.

Applying wallcovering to steel is similar to going over glass. First, there must be a rust-inhibiting primer on the steel. Then, a wallcovering primer/sealer needs to be applied. Do not use latex primers, since the adhesive will remain wet for a long time, and this could loosen the primer. Primers made for difficult-to-bond-to surfaces will work best. Most adhesives are no longer made to work over oil-based primers. The installer will need to use a primer such as PROFESSIONAL R-35 over the base primer before pasting. Vinyl-over-vinyl or low-water-content pastes will work best, since the adhesive will be drying between two impervious surfaces.

Chalkboards can be resurfaced with wallcovering or pressure-sensitive adhesive (PSA). Follow PSA directions for installation. For wallcovering, determine what type of chalkboard you are covering. For painted hardboard chalk or slate surfaces, the surface can be cleaned, dried, and applied directly to the surface. Porcelain chalkboards may require some type of adhesive promoting primer, since these are impervious surfaces.

Any seams in chalk or steel surfaces should be filled or they will telegraph through the Walltalkers surface. Seam should be thoroughly cleaned prior to filling. Vinyl Spackle or auto body filler can be used to fill the seams. Either filler will need to be primed with a paint similar in color to the chalkboard surface; spray enamels work well.

Particleboard and hardboard can also be covered. When applying to these surfaces, they will need to be primed on both sides to prevent warping. The surface will need to be smooth so that imperfections in the sheet do not telegraph through the Walltalkers surface. Paneling, textured surfaces, and plywood are not recommended for resurfacing.

Walltalkers does not recommend any specific brand of adhesive, only that adhesive should be heavy-duty clay or heavy-duty clear for most installations. Both should be of a good commercial grade. Adhesives are best premixed and they should be used at full strength (not diluted).

When installing over impervious surfaces such as laminates, chalkboards, or markerboards, the use of a heavy-duty vinyl-over-vinyl adhesive is recommended.

Yes, pre-wetting the substrate surface with a soap and water solution allows the installer to move the Walltalkers material into place. The solution should consist of approximately 4 drops of liquid detergent to16 ounces of water. Do not apply Walltalkers self-adhesive products directly to drywall.

Permanent marker can be removed with cleaner or by writing over it with a dry-erase marker and erasing.

You cannot use an abrasive cleaner on Walltalkers products, even mild abrasive cleaners can scratch the surface. Abrasive pads and coarse paper towels should also be avoided.

Yes, dry-erase markers become more difficult to erase over time. Water and cleaner may be required to remove old markings left on the surface.

An eraser should be cleaned or replaced when it no longer removes all or most dry-erase writing. Otherwise, they should be replaced as needed.

When Walltalkers is first installed, the surface should be thoroughly cleaned with soap and water, and then rinsed with water. The water should be changed frequently so it does not get contaminated with adhesive. The material must be dried with a soft towel before using the surface. This initial cleaning is important to remove any wallcovering adhesive that may be left on the surface.

"How often do I need to clean the surface?" is a commonly asked question. This is somewhat difficult to answer, since this really depends on how much writing the user is doing. Some rooms may be used occasionally, which may require weekly or monthly cleanings. Other rooms may be used daily which may require daily cleanings. This all depends on the frequency of use. Basically, when dry-erase material is dirty, it should be cleaned; this holds true for all dry-erase surfaces.

To clean the surface, use Walltalkers dry-erase cleaner or Sanford Expo® cleaner. All cleaners work best if the surface is rinsed with water after cleaning. The water rinse will remove any residue left behind by the cleaners. Water-, alcohol-, or ammonia-based cleaners may also work to clean the surface. Never use abrasive cleaners on Walltalkers surfaces. Rinsing with water will help make sure that the surface is clean and free from residue after cleaning. Let the surface dry thoroughly after cleaning.

For stubborn stains, you can use a multi-purpose remover like Goof-Off®. If the material has been on the wall for a short period of time and it is not erasing, this is due most likely to dried adhesive remaining on the surface. The multi-purpose remover will assist in removing the adhesive residue. Again, make sure the Walltalkers surface is rinsed with water after cleaning.

Goof-Off® is a registered trademark of Valspar.

For all Walltalkers products, microfiber cloths and microfiber erasers are recommended.

Yes, but like all markers, cleaners, and erasers, the Walltalkers brand will provide you with long-lasting results.

For best results, we recommend EXPO Low Odor dry-erase markers for all dry-erase surfaces. EXPO Low Odor dry-erase markers may require liquid cleaning to completely remove markings.

The ideal magets to use with Mag-Rite are heavy-pull (neodymium iron boron) magnets. The typical refrigerator "giveaway" magnets do not provide enough strength to hold much to the Mag-Rite surface. Some people find that a larger strip (sheet) magnet works well by attaching part of the magnet to the Mag-Rite surface and the rest of the magnet overlapping the paper.

Most of our orders ship within 48 hours of receipt.

Yes, we recommend calling us for updates of our international relationships.

We ship most orders, including accessories, via FedEx, UPS, or DHL. If package size guidelines are exceeded or a customer requests a specific shipper, a different shipping service will be used. For larger trim and tray orders, we ship via common carrier.

Yes. Lightly sand off paint, clean dust off walls, and follow up with a bond test before installing. If the Tac-Wall will not properly bond, go back and do a more intense sanding to remove any paint residue.

Yes, and the drywall does not have to be primed first.

Tac-Wall can be repaired by doing a plug (inserting a new piece) of Tac-Wall. Make the plug in a diamond or fish-eye shape. However, you will see the plug because Tac-Wall is a uni-colored product.

Tac-Wall edges are finished with T-profiles, which can be purchased from any home retail shop or wall partition store. Other options are:

• Fitting a frame around the edge
• Beveling the edges
• Milling to desired edge
• Cutting the edges straight

Inside corners are finished by pattern-scribing the material to ensure a tight fit between the Tac-Wall sheets.

Butt Joint—Remove factory edge from sheet one with a seam and strip cutter. Overlap sheet one with sheet two about one inch, using the seam and strip cutter's guide to follow sheet one's trimmed edge. Place a piece of masking tape across the seam for use as an alignment aid. Adhere sheet one to the wall and then adhere sheet two, making sure to align the sheets with the tape. Give particular attention to hand-rolling the seams.

"T" Moulding—Finish edges with "T" profile with maximum 1/4" prong in matching or contrasting colors.

Leaving a Gap—Remove factory edges from both sheets. Paint the visible part of the wall in matching or contrasting colors. Glue the first sheet using spacers (as used in ceramic tile installations). Glue the other sheet. The spacer will keep an even gap between the sheets.

"U" or 45° Angle—Trim factory edges, then use a router bevel or shape the edges for the desired look. Install the sheets butted against each other.

Finish outside corners by using corner guards to ensure adequate protection and durability.

L-910 (linoleum adhesive) is the first choice to be used and is the only adhesive covered by the Tac-Wall warranty.

It is important to use a 1/16" x 1/16" x 1/16" square-notched trowel, which comes with a four-gallon pail of L-910. On nonporous walls, let the L-910 flash off (at least 50%) before installing Tac-Wall. However, the adhesive should be wet enough to break the trowel marks.

To remove dried adhesive residue, mineral spirits (a type of turpentine) can be purchased from most hardware stores.

Linoleum resilient homogeneous tackable surface material is made of natural materials consisting of linseed oil, granulated cork, and rosin binders mixed and calendered onto natural burlap backing. Uni-color extends throughout the thickness of material. Tac-Wall contains no harmful components.

Tac-Wall is not manufactured to be an acoustical product. It can deaden noise, but has no acoustical value; therefore, a noise co-efficiency test is not available.

Width: 48" (122cm)
Gauge: 1/4" (6.0mm)
Length: 95 lineal feet (29 lineal meters)

Note: All Tac-Wall colors are available in 1/4" gauge x 48" width.

Use a seam and strip cutter to remove factory edge. You may use a straightedge with a utility knife or hooked-blade knife to cut material to length.